When I was preparing for my week-long vacation travel to Azores islands, I encountered lot’s of information. How to “jump the islands”, up to “40 things to do”, and “hiking the trails” of the Azores… Yep, you can try to prepare for all those things. But the island is the King, and the weather dictates your activities not only from day to day, but also during the day. So a good plan for the Azores is – no plan. Just go with the flow, as the island is no less stunning on the gloomy day as it is when the sun is shining. So what to see in the Azores on various weather conditions? All my experience is here in this blog post.
Living and navigating San Miguel island, Azores
San Miguel is the largest island of the Azores which is the destination of all international flights. The domestic travels between the islands are also via air with few ferries available. I stayed only in San Miguel as the weather was not the best for flights between the islands with the risk of not coming back on time (because of the weather, of course).
When talking about the inner island exploring, car rent is your best (and I believe only) solution. The roads are perfect, even to the most remote places. Which might be unexpected in such a wild environment, but it’s true. The infrastructure of the island is fully adapted to the locals and visitors’ needs. Furthermore, the prices of car rent and fuel are so reasonable (it’s Portugal).
When considering where to live in San Miguel, I would divide possibilities into two parts – the capital Ponta Delgada and everything else. The capital is the only “city” in the island, all other cities I’d call towns. So it depends, are you a fan of hustle and crowds (there are no crowds in Azores, but as close as it gets to “a crowd” you’ll find it in Ponta Delgada), or are you into a more peaceful “Portuguese” life. I’m for sure the person of small “cute” towns. So we rented a huge apartment (suitable for 7 people, but we are only 2) in a small town called Agua de Alto. The location is really convenient if you plan to explore the island top-down, left-right, as it is in the middle of island’s south.
Weather in Azores?
Vacation in the Azores goes like this – you wake up in the morning, look through the window, dress, and plan activities accordingly for what you see through the window, BUT put at least 3 extra outfits to your backpack and have plans B and even C for the day ahead. Yes, it’s true that you can experience four seasons in a day in Azores. Even few times a day. So no day should start without a look into Azores web cams.
My week-long experience also consisted of everything – rain, storm, fog, sun, heat, just the snow wasn’t there, as it was June. One more feature to consider before your travel to Azores – if the weather is foggy in your town, you might drive few kilometers aside and there will be a totally different view.
Very important tip: as soon as you have a bright and sunny day, first of all, visit the lakes of the Azores. After it’s done – catch a sunset on the West coast of the island. If you decide to leave the lakes for the last days of your trip, you might miss them due to the thick fog, which tends to cover the lakes quite often.
Gem of the Azores – lakes
The nature in the Azores is wonderful in a unique way. On one hand it’s really simple, there are no Grand canyons or Niagara falls. On the other hand it’s special in colors, shades and the smell and the feeling of life on these volcanic origin islands. But the places that are the most worth visiting are the lakes.
I already mentioned in the beginning of the post, that as soon as you see that the sky is blue with no clouds – dedicate this day to the lakes. This is the key rule. During my stay in Azores, the first three days were grey, and all-island was covered in mist and clouds. Not the most positive start. There is no point to go to the lakes or other high located places during this weather. Hint! Drive around the island, you’ll definitely find a corner in the East or West where sun will shine.
Furnas lake
Furnas is one of the biggest cities in San Miguel island. The city is located on the middle part of the island, and even despite that it’s not a beach front town, the visitors are floating to this city. Why? It is famous for lot’s of things and the lake Furnas is one of them. The entire valley of Furnas is located on the volcanic crater and this is the main pulse for everything that is happening in and around the city.
The lake of Furnas is peaceful and still. You can choose from many hiking trails in the area and around the lake and enjoy the benefits of special air (filled with sulfur). The best point of view to observe the lake is Pico do Ferro viewpoint.
Fogo lake
Only 23 km away from the town we stayed in, in the very center of the island the lake of fire appears. This is the highest located lake in the Azores based in a volcano crater. It’s surrounded by wild nature and plenty of hiking trails are possible around. Due to the height, the place is super sensitive to the weather, so if you see the cloud covering the island – the lake will not be visible at all.
Sete Cidades lake
“Lake of seven cities” is the most beautiful and popular twin lake in Azores. It consists of two lakes separated by bridge – Lagoa Azul and Lagoa Verde. It’s probably the most famous lake in the Azores. Looking from above it looks like one lake is green and another is blue. Of course this is the game of sunlight, but there is a legend behind. Two young lovers, who could no longer be together met for the last goodbyes and these lakes are result of their tears. The color is different due to the color of their eyes. The long version of the legend can be found here.
The drive to the lakes is full of vista points and I strongly suggest to stop at each point and take a picture of all the angles possible. But the best one is considered Vista do Rey – King’s view. There are few hiking trails going from this point, if you wish for a great exercise. Also Vista do Rey is the place where the famous abandoned hotel – Monte palace is located. It is forbidden to go in and explore, because the state of the building is dangerous. However, the building is usually full of brave explorers. Well, I’m usually the one who goes with the rules, so, it was enough to look at it from outside.
Santiago lake
The Santiago lake is a bit overshadowed by the place where its situated and from where it’s best visible. Both Santiago and even smaller lake – Rasa are in the horizon, when you reach one of the most stunning viewpoints in Azores – Boca do Inferno. The lake is in almost perfectly shaped volcano crater. You can drive around the lake and you can hike around it. But the best is to observe it from above with all forests and lakes Sete Cidades behind it.
Ponta Delgada – the capital of Azores
Ponta Delgada is the capital of the Azores islands and the largest and most urban city there. If you are expecting to gave something close to a nightlife in Azores, then this will be the place to go. Although these islands are far from nightlife destinations. The city grew from a small fisherman village to an important harbor in the middle of the ocean.
The most important landmark in the city most probably will be the gate to the city (“Portas da Cidade”). The monument stands in a beautiful square facing the ocean. If possible, it would be best to visit the place at night, the vibrant lights create amazing atmosphere.
Ponta Delgada is the best place to experience the pineapple lifecycle. In the Arruda pineapple plantation you can explore everything by yourself and the entrance is free. Do not expect lots of activities and adventures there as it is free entrance and work is going on there. But the staff is willing to answer your questions and explain the fun of growing pineapples. By the way, this is the perfect time to emphasize that you must taste the local pineapples!!! This will be the best pineapple in your life.
Not going too far from plants, Ponta Delgada is the place for António Borges Garden. The historical garden is full of rare plants and trees also with grottos and passages. Further on, just wander the city, visit the churches and walk along the promenade. You will absorb that middle-ocean Portuguese life without crowds and just wind blowing through your hair.
By the way, as much as I experienced and heard from other travelers, city of Ponta Delgada is usually sunny. So don’t fool yourself if you are staying here and planning a day trip to the other side of the island. Always check the live weather webcams!
City of Furnas, Azores
You will definitely cross pass Furnas not once during your exploration of San Miguel island. Because it is in the middle of everything. Furnas is the city with lot’s of attractions to visit and things to do for a longer period of time.
What are my impressions of Furnas? Well, first of all – city has it’s smell 🙂 Due to the valley’s volcanic origin, you will quite often encounter steam coming from beneath the surface with a strong sulfur smell.
If we started with the smell lets move forward with it. At the North end of Lagoa das Furnas lies the most important and most visited place where you can walk along the fumaroles with the boiling water and smell of rotten eggs coming from them. Although these steaming holes are spread around whole island but this is the place with largest concentration of them. All Furnas is.
These steaming holes are related to one traditional dish cozido (stew). It’s just traditional stew with meat and vegetables, but the secret of it is the method of cooking. It is cooked for 6 hours in the large pot which is buried in a fumarole underground. This is a simple but traditional dish of the area.
Furnas brings me one strange memory – every time that we passed through this city, we got lost in it. The weather this was navigation problems, weather other reasons. But yes – every time.
Even on the rainy day, Furnas is full of attractions. Due to it’s nature’s gifts the city is full of natural springs where you can bath and absorb all health benefits. One of the places to do it is Poças Dona Beija, a place with thermal pools available to the public.
Orange colored water is full of iron, so, please, bring not the newest bikini, as it will really be destroyed. Warm water can even become hot if it is a sunny day. I remember that I was a bit sun burnt the day before, so being in the warm water was fine, but when the sun came out it became unbearable.
The prices are fair, if I remember correctly – 4 EUR for entrance. But if you need a towel or a shower all is for additional price. Actually, the area of pools is small and popular, so it can be filled with people fast. But you may not eat or drink in the area, so people don’t come here for half-day, but for a shorter period of time.
The other MUST attraction in Furnas is Terra Nostra Garden/Park. This place is worth even a separate blog post and you would have what to do there for full day. Terra Nostra is actually a hotel complex, but if you are not the hotel guest, you can use all benefits of the surroundings for a small entry fee of 6 EUR.
First of all, you can use the huge thermal pool for a whole day. There are additional pools away to the side. The water is pleasant for it’s warmth (~39 degrees), but it has strangely brown color… But the color only means more natural benefits. There are places to shower, to change wardrobe, toilets, etc.
After enjoying your time in the pool, you must visit the enormous garden – park of Terra Nostra. You can circle around many kilometers there and experience different environments in one area. From bamboo forests to bonsai and then to the prettiest flowers. Remember that Azores are all about the nature, and in this place the nature can be seen at it’s best.
Hiking is a must along your travel to Azores
I can repeat myself once again – I can’t imagine how people manage to do all those hikes in Azores in one week… Well, my strategy was to drive everywhere by car, where’s possible. But there is still few special places where cars won’t take you, and this part is about them.
Boca do Inferno
Boca do Inferno (“Mouth of Hell”) – I believe this should be the most important place in the island and must be in your travel to Azores itinerary. The dream place for photographers, hikers and all of those thirsty for magnificent horizon views. First of all, it’s a bit tricky to find. As it is a mandatory hike, you have to park a bit further away, close to the Canary’s lagoon, in the parking lot called “Parque estacionamento”.
From the parking lot till the final spot there is ~2 km hike through the beautiful forest. The hike ends with a short but steep uphill. And then the breathtaking view appears. There are not too many places in the Azores where you’ll encounter crowds. But this is one of those places. During my visit there were ~20 people , and it was possible to still keep my own solitude and enjoy the sounds of nature.
Salto do Prego waterfall
Salto do Prego is not the only waterfall in San Miguel, but it’s the “strongest” one. The waterfall itself is amazing, located in the beautiful place deep deep in the forest. There you can swim, take photos or have a picnic. Of course, you will need refreshments after a 4 km quite moderate hike.
The hike itself is a separate attraction. Take into account that it’s not an easy one. It includes steep climbing, going down, and then back up again. In addition to this, its slippery in some areas. I felt it myself – going back from the waterfall, I slipped in quite a dangerous area (the place where you can have a quite steep fall on the side). Luckily, just got some bruises and scratches, that affected the rest of my trip. So, be careful! Anyway, the hike is worth every effort.
Trail to the waterfall
A cup of tea in Azores
When driving through the island, take the opportunity to explore the authentic tea plantation – Chá Gorreana. Already for a few centuries tea has been grown in the middle of Atlantic ocean, this really adds the excitement. It’s a free place, you can explore the surrounding plantations, wander through them. But also use the opportunity to go through all the factory which follows full journey of tea from the plantation to your cup of tea. This is the Europe’s oldest and currently only tea plantation.
In pursuit of sunsets in Azores
San Miguel island located in the middle of the Atlantic ocean offers the best sunsets ever. The sky is beautiful around all the island at the sunset time, but to experience the full beauty, you need to go to the West side. There is nothing else more special than capturing the sunset on your travel to the Azores. For the best sunset views visit Mosteiros. Of course, there are lot’s of viewpoints along all the Western coastline. But Mosteiros is a must to watch the sunset at least once.
Ever dreamed of swimming in the ocean at the sunset? On the West coast you can find places where you can wade along the coast, and even where you can swim in one of the natural basins of Azores. One of them in Ponta da Ferraria. The picture is not from the evening time, but the place is this.
Vila Franca do Campo, Azores
The last but not least what I wanted to mention it this blog post, is a town close to where we stayed – Vila Franca do Campo. Even though we visited the city a lot for fishing, going to supermarkets, and driving through to reach the highway as this was our “gate” to the rest of the island, it’s definitely worth the visit along your travel to the Azores even if you live on the other side of the island.
Vila Franca do Campo was once the main city and the capital of the archipelago. Sadly, but there was a severe earthquake in 16th century that destroyed the town. Today there are few important landmarks to visit in the town.
Islet of Vila Franca do Campo looks magnificent from the shore, and even more astonishing from the above. It’s really worth a visit for a half or even full-day trip. It’s not called a “paradise islet” for nothing. The islet is actually the crater of the old volcano which forms the perfect circular lake in the middle of the island.
The small chapel of Nossa Senhora de Paz is visible when looking uphill from the town. It’s worth a visit for many reasons – for the chapel itself and for the views of the ocean from it. You can hike from the town to it, but the hill is so steep… Even cars (or more drivers) struggle going up. But the drive to the hill is not the final spot. You still need to climb lots of steps to reach the top. But it’s worth your every step.
Just drive around the island
All island is full of beauty, and you can find something special in every corner, just follow the signs for “Miradurro” (it is “view point” in Portuguese), and don’t be afraid to take a turn to the roads not wandered. The “wild” and “natural” should be your keywords along your travel to Azores You will definitely be surprised by the island.
If you enjoyed the Azores, there is one more unexpected paradise on earth – Lofoten. Take a look at the photo gallery of this amazing archipelago: 30 photos that will make you want to visit Lofoten Islands immediately
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Hello.This post was really interesting, especially
since I was searching for thoughts on this matter last Tuesday.
Sailing around and exploring the Azores has been on my to-do list for years now. Every time I see folks travel there I just want to hop on a plane and go.
When there will again be a safe possibility to travel, I recommend it strongly. And you can travel there full year – the weather is almost the same always.
Wow this is just amazing, great and comprehensive post. Love the lakes, there’s even the tea plantation
wow. When I was at Madeira, got the wish to visit Azores..
And I have a vice versa wish 🙂 Now I want to visit Madeira 🙂
Azores and beautiful and what breathtaking lakes! The waterfalls and rich green colors of the land open my eyes wide.
I also love that the cities retain so much original architecture. 🙂
Yes, this is paradise 🙂
Great blog! Currently planning a trip and this was super helpful!
Thank you! Wish you all the best in your journey 🙂
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Thanks for this guide! Azores are definitely on my list and I think you have packed some really useful tips inside. I wasn’t aware that the weather is so unpredictable on the islands, but I am glad you managed to visit some beautiful sites, even with some clouds above them. It did not effect the impressions negatively at all!