Visit Svartisen – one of the biggest glaciers in Norway

When you miss ice and cold in the Summer – try to visit Svartisen glacier. This is the second-largest glacier in Norway. This glacier should definitely be on each travelers list when in Northern Norway. Actually, you don’t need to go too far to the North, the area of the glacier starts just around the Arctic circle.

The name Svartisen comes from the Norwegian word “svartis”, which means the special deep blue color of the ice in contrast with the white snow. Svartisen has 60 glacier’s “tongues” and covers an area of ~370 km2. This is the lowest glacier in mainland Europe, as it is only 20 meters above sea level. This is why it is convenient to reach without special gear for an average person. Due to the climate changes the glacier has changed over a few decades.

The first attempt to visit Svartisen glacier

The glacier hike was on my ‘must visit’ list too. I was planning to stop there at the end of the journey, already coming back from the North. Unfortunately, there was not enough research done before the trip. So I was totally surprised when during the first days of my road trip along the Helgelandskysten (F17 road), I saw one of the Svartisen’s so-called “tongues” – Engenbreen.

Visit Svartisen glacier tongue – Engenbreen

The Engenbreen glacier tongue is situated along the Coastal Road in Meløy municipality and can be seen from the road. Engenbreen is one magnificent glacier arm of Svartisen ending about 200 meters above sea level. We stopped in the ‘Braset rasteplass‘ area to admire this view and think, what to do next.

The Engenbreen glacier can also be reached in a 2.5-hour ride from Bodø. There is a boat across the Holandsfjord. Tickets cost 200 NOK for adults and 100 NOK for children. After you cross to the other shore, the 3 km hike up to the glacier follows. As the boat was away at that time, the only thing we managed to learn was that the last trip from the glacier back to the road was at 4 PM. And it was already 1 PM for us. It’s good that we understood that 3 hours are not enough for boat journeys, hike to the glacier and back.

Of course, just a “check-in” is not enough, you need time to feel this nature’s miracle and admire it. I will repeat myself but a visit to Svartisen glacier should be thoroughly planned. So with mixed feelings and minds, we moved forward along the Helgelandskysten to the North. With the hope that there will be a chance to reach the glacier when we will be coming back through highway E6.

Visit Svartisen glacier successfully – Austerdalsisen

After having the first lesson, we have done more research. And our second visit to the Svartisen glacier was successful. But first, I want to mention that the E6 highway takes you through the Svartisen – Saltfellet national park. This area is high above sea level, snowy even in the mid-Summer. But the views are amazing! There are few rest places where you can camp overnight with a tent, camper, or just in your car. Use this opportunity.

Driving along the highway you will pass The Arctic Circle center. The alien ship-shaped building is open only during the Summer season. It has a small cafe and a souvenir shop. Worth stopping for a coffee and some photos. Unfortunately, we drove by as we drove in the night through this area.

Hiking to the glacier

You can easily reach the Austerdalsisen glacier 32 km North of Mo i Rana. The place where you can get the boat ride is called ‘Svartisen Rana‘. From here you can reach Austerdalsisen by a 20-minute boat trip across the Svartisvatnet Lake. The boat ride costs 200 NOK and takes you both ways. Tickets can be bought directly at the boat and at the tourist information.

The following 3 km hike along the marked trail was the most extreme I’ve ever experienced. There might be a trail for a few first hundred meters, but after that, there is just climbing up the rough surface. And the last kilometer felt like the previous two combined. Remember to wear good footwear for the hike to the glacier. 

When you reach the mini-cabin – a place to rest and admire the beauty of the glacier, it seems that it already can be reached within a hand. But from there the fun part begins. The “marked trail” is gone, or we lost it. Your hike to the glacier becomes not the hike anymore, rather constant climbing up and down.

Admiring nature’s miracle

And then, finally, you can touch the ice… We were aiming to the bottom of the Austerdalsisen tongue, but we saw people hiking along the top of the glacier. From far away, it seems that you will be able to sit on the edge of the glacier, but when you approach it’s huge.

Around the glacier, you will constantly hear water tapping from the melting ice. I know it was summer and the sun was shining, so the ice is supposed to melt. But actually, this is the place where you can witness global warming progressing in your eyes. It’s time to fill in those empty water bottles – you will need them for your hike back. It’s no easier to go back the same way, as the road was always up and down. The water from the glacier is the purest that you could ever taste.

Which one to choose to visit?

So, when to visit Svartisen glacier, is Engenbreen or Austerdalsisen a better choice? First of all, it depends on which road you take – F17 or E6. Then you will just choose the glacier which is closer to you.

If your wish is just to see and admire the glacier without hiking, then Engenbreen should be the choice. It is clearly visible from road F17. If you want to take the effortless closer look, take the boat to the other shore. There you will reach Brestua café with a super cool view of the glacier. I cannot comment how hard is the hike up to the ice itself, as I didn’t experience it, but you will have ~2 km left trail uphill.

Now Austerdalsisen cannot be seen from distance easily. Not only do you have to take the boat, but also you need to hike a major part of the distance until you see the ice. And the hike is quite challenging from the 1st step. But this is a priceless experience to take this hike to the glacier. Plus, in Austerdalsisen are there is a massive waterfall, which brings additional excitement to your journey here.

Remember! Glaciers are dangerous as they are continually moving, and parts of ice can come loose and fall down the mountain. Keep at a safe distance, don’t hit the ice, and resist the temptation to enter glaciers tunnels.